Pai Men Miyake (Portland, ME)

After starting my holiday trip to Portland with a long awaited stop at Duckfat, on the 24th I had lunch at Pai Men Miyake, the casual accompaniment to Masa Miyake's celebrated Miyake restaurant.  Situated at the top of the "Old Port" section of Portland, Pai Men Miyake focuses on ramen (Pai Men meaning "100 Noodles" according to the website) blending traditional Japanese flavors with the use of local, fresh ingredients to create a truly remarkable meal.  Yakitori is available after 5:30pm, but since I was there during lunch and obviously could not have that, I went with the "Tei-Shoku" lunch special, choosing one option each from two of four "groups" of dishes, including dumplings, vegetables, ramen, and sushi; prices depend on what you pick.

I started with the pork gyoza, simple potstickers that did not outwardly look any different from any others, but are made with fresh, local pork and cabbage, with a nice, subtle flavor of each, a perfectly thin wrapper, and served with a light sesame oil and soy dipping sauce.  They were seared in such a way as to have a little bit of browning, and thus the accompanying flavor of a light pan fry, but without being really crispy; this is actually a good thing, as pot sticker type dumplings tend to fall apart if they get too hard a sear.  These were some of the better dumplings I have had, but the second I tried my sister's brussel's sprouts, I regretted my choice; more on that later.

For my primary dish I had the paitan ramen, with the traditional Japanese ramen noodles surrounded by a strong pork and chicken broth, topped with a little pork belly, half a soy marinated soft boiled egg, scallion, and a piece of nori (seaweed typically used to make maki rolls).  This is very, very different from the Korean style ramen of Manna House, but I wouldn't say it's better or worse; simply different.  I had them add the spicy garlic paste, but even with that there wasn't much spice, and the broth was lighter in color, though flavor-wise it was still intense.  The pork belly was good, though there was little of it, and the nori did not really add much, but the egg was remarkable; I'm not a big fan of soft boiled eggs, but this was so perfectly cooked, with such a delicate soy flavor enhancing the natural flavor of a really fresh egg, that I found myself wishing there were several of them. 

My little sister ordered the tokyo abura-soba ramen, which is simply the noodles, chili oil, egg yolk, nori and sambal (a spicy chili paste with a flavor similar to that of sriracha, though it is significantly thicker), without any broth.  Spicy and simple, this was really tasty, and not something I would have really given much thought to ordering, as it has neither broth nor meat, but this was just one of a couple dishes outside my normal realm of interest that surprised me that day.

My older sister started with the brussel's sprouts, as I said, and they were...my god, they were good.  I can't even describe it.  A huge serving of halved sprouts, drenched in tamari (a soy sauce variety) and fish sauce, they are tangy and slightly sweet, roasted just to where the outside leaves are a little crispy, just inside are softer leaves, and then the core is just slightly crunchy, with a great bite to them that I have not been able to achieve when I've made roasted sprouts, and that I haven't really had elsewhere either.  These were by far the best sprouts I have ever had, and I'm really hoping to learn to make them the way that Pai Men does.

Her second dish was a pair of steamed buns, sandwiched around thin pieces of fried tofu.  I normally don't really like steamed buns that much, simply because they're rarely well made, and I almost never like tofu, for textural and flavor reasons.  Both were incredible.  The buns were light, porous, and slightly chewy, and the tofu had a slight crunch to the exterior that kept it from feeling like the spongy mess that I associate with tofu normally.  I have no clue what the tofu was marinated in, and I can't even describe its flavor, but it was really, really delicious, and went perfectly with the aioli-like mayonnaise that was lightly applied to the inside of the bun.  Since I liked it, I suspect anyone else trying it will too, even those who typically object to tofu; it really surprised me, and changed my mind a little bit regarding pressed bean curd.

With the exception of the gyoza, all the portions were pretty good; the brussel's sprouts came piled in a large bowl, and it took all three of us picking at them to finish without having my sister be full prior to the buns' arrival, while the bowls of ramen were plenty of food.  The gyoza had just four dumplings, which were not filling, but after mooching some of the sprouts and eating my ramen, I left quite satisfied.  For drinks, a number of local craft beers were available, both on tap and in bottles, with Smuttynose Brewing Company being the best represented.  I went with their Scotch Ale, a strong, heavy, and well made beer that may have been a little too much for this particular meal, but I enjoyed it nonetheless.  My older sister had the same, and my little sister went with the Oxbow Saison Noel, a very dark representation of this traditional farmhouse beer, though it maintained the lightness and flavor of a normal saison.  All in all this is a fantastic restaurant, and I look forward to not only going back but also exploring its sister restaurant.  It's also very vegetarian friendly if that's your thing.

On a side note, both restaurants and the Miyake Catering business are served by Miyake Farm, where they raise fowl, pigs, and produce; this is true farm to table, in the purest sense of the term.  

©Miyake Farm

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Manna House (Greenfield, MA)

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As I previously said, Korean cuisine is among my few favorites, and Manna House, a tiny little hole in the wall (literally), serves some of the finest food I've ever eaten.  The owner, Mrs. Lee, cooks up fresh, traditional, and filling meals at a pretty reasonable price, all by herself while also serving and taking orders.  This is one of my favorite lunch joints, and is well worth the fifteen minute drive to meet my step-dad or friend who works in town.  The food is good enough that my mom's friends, who live in New York City and are extremely well traveled, consider this to be fantastic.

My favorite options are the Ramen soup, which comes both in both "spicy" or "not spicy" versions (be aware, the "not spicy" still has some spice), the combination platter, which has crispy pan fried dumplings (which are to die for), jap chae, rice, and "sushi", and last but not least, the spicy squid with rice.

If you've never had it in a Korean restaurant, then the Ramen will be like nothing you've ever had before.  Banish thoughts of "Top Ramen" and "Cup O' Noodles."  This is not that.  Spicy and savory, with flavorful noodles, green onions, and a fried egg, this is the single best remedy for a cold I have ever found; seriously, keep your Nyquil and Sudafed, I'll take a spicy bowl of Ramen.  It's a lot of food, but I've never even considered not finishing it, even when I was full; it's too damn good to waste.

The combo platter is a great option for people who don't like spicy foods, which most of my preferences on the menu are.  The japchae, sweet potato noodles with vegetables, is an oddly refreshing dish for a hot noodle dish.  The rice, as with all the rice served at Manna House, is properly cooked (something that should not be underestimated; seriously, how often do you get truly well cooked rice?), but lacks flavor, so I tend to use some soy sauce.  The "sushi," which is similar to the traditional Japanese variety but using either ham or kept vegetarian, is tasty but nothing to go out of your way for in my opinion, though my mother loves it.  Lastly, the real star of the show, the yakimandu, or dumplings, are also available either in pork or vegetarian versions.  Crispy pan fried, with a ridiculous amount of flavor, texture and scent, these dumplings are amazing; pretty much everyone who I've gone with thinks they're the best thing offered, and it'd be difficult to argue that point.  These aren't your standard potstickers found in Chinese restaurants; the dough is thicker, and actually is flavorful on its own, and the filling is strongly flavored but without overwhelming any of the other ingredients.

If I'm not in the mood for soup but still want something spicy, the squid and rice is great.  The sauce that comes on the squid (separated from the rice, which will become important as you get towards the end of the meal and need that plain starch to soak up some of the heat that's already hit your palate) just looks spicy, a bright red with obvious flecks of chiles.  The squid is cooked properly, something that you will almost never see, sadly; squid is always overcooked, making it tough and, well, gross.  The rice, squid and sauce together is a truly ingenious combination that makes me want to travel back in time, find the Korean chef who came up with it, and give them a big hug.  The only complaint I can find with this dish is that squid is a delicate flavor, and it does get a little overwhelmed by the sauce; however, it is not by the spice in the sauce, but by the flavor, so this is a nitpicky kind of gripe.

Overall, this is the best truly Korean restaurant I've been to (Danji, mentioned in an earlier post, does not count, as they are a "fusion" restaurant), and I highly recommend it to anyone in the area, or traveling through.  For under $10, you can get a lot of great food and be exposed to a cuisine that many people have never experienced.  The owner is extremely friendly, and after having gone to Manna House only about four times has recognized me ever since, and even knows what my favorites are.  The meals are all served with banchan, small plates of sides such as kimchi, beat sprouts, or potatoes in a slightly sweet brown sauce that I can't identify but that is really delicious.  There is also a tea that I'm pretty sure is buckwheat, but don't take my word on that; it's good, but it took me a couple tries to really like it, so if you don't enjoy it immediately give it another shot.

One last note; unlike most of the restaurants I go to and enjoy, this is actually very vegetarian friendly.  The options if you don't eat meat aren't wide, but what's available is delicious and both vegetarians I've taken enjoyed it.

**Update**
05/17/12:  It appears that Manna House has moved to a larger location on Bank Row in Greenfield, so it will be interesting to see if the menu changes/expands, and whether they're able to sustain growth.  I'll be checking it out soon I'm sure.

06/13/12:  I finally made it to the new Manna House location, and while the food hasn't changed (a good thing), this location is far, far better.  It is still not large, but now it can seat probably 30, rather than 9, and the room is beautifully decorated, clean, and welcoming.  As soon as I walked in the owner recognized me, and knew that I had not been in since she moved; while this is a small thing, it really makes a person feel welcome and comforted, and is among the many reasons that I will continue to patronize this establishment.

09/25/12:  I spoke with the owner, and she is planning on getting a liquor license, but it's a tough sell in Greenfield, a town that is already saturated with liquor serving establishments.

Also, I got the dol bi bim bab, and it was fantastic.  Served in a sizzling stone hot pot, this rice topped with vegetables and spicy chili sauce was so damn good I didn't even mind that it was vegetarian.  The mushrooms add some meaty flavor anyways, and the egg perfectly cooked as it sat on the top.  All mixed together, it creates a delicious amalgam of flavors and textures.  The rice along the bottom of the bowl crisps up a little, reminding me of the way a proper paella does as well.

My Favorites

It makes sense, I suppose, to start with my favorite from each category; this blog's version of the "What would you want if you were stranded on an island" game.  So here goes.

• Whisky 

I'm starting here because, quite honestly, it's the easiest decision.  As I write this, I am drinking my last half shot of BenRiach, a 20 year old single malt Speyside Scotch that I bought in England several years ago.  In a break from my normal tastes, this has almost no smoke to it, but it is even smoother than even the best blends I have had.  With a light note of vanilla, and a beautiful finish, this is the perfect Scotch, with just one problem:  I CAN'T FIND IT IN THE USA!  I have tried, and tried, and tried, but I have yet to find it, even in stores that are Scotch heavy.  I could order it, but even as good as this stuff is, I can't bring myself to spend $200+ on a single bottle to get it shipped here from England when I can drink from any of the numerous bottles of good to great Scotches on my shelf.

Honorable Mentions:  Lagavulin 16, Balvenie DoubleWood 12

• Beer

This is a tough one, but it really comes down to two breweries competing for the number one spot:  Stone Brewing Co. of Escondido, CA; and Dogfish Head Brewery of Milton, DE.  Stone's Arrogant Bastard Ale is a heavy, harsh, bitter, and delicious beer that will make fun of you as you drink it.  Seriously, it does.  This is what it says on the label and their website, www.arrogantbastard.com:

"This is an aggressive ale. You probably won’t like it. It is quite doubtful that you have the taste  or sophistication to be able to appreciate an ale of this quality and depth. We would suggest that you stick to safer and more familiar territory–maybe something with a multi-million dollar ad campaign aimed at convincing you it’s made in a little brewery, or one that implies that their tasteless fizzy yellow beverage will give you more sex appeal. Perhaps you think multi-million dollar ad campaigns make things taste better. Perhaps you’re mouthing your words as you read this."

 So, if you're of the sensitive variety, either in taste buds or personality, this is NOT the beer for you.  If you like big, strong, higher ABV beers (7.2%) this is for you.  Just remember, "You’re Not Worthy™"

As for Dogfish Head, they are my favorite brewery overall, and WorldWide Stout is the best of the best.  At a massive 18% ABV, this will literally knock you on your ass.  I tried it at the 2011 American Craft Beer Fest and it blew me away.  It was the first beer I tasted and I'm so glad, because it was by far the best I had all day and it disappeared shortly after (Stone's was already out of Arrogant Bastard by the time I arrived).  I'm not really sure how to describe this beer other than to say it reminded me of sipping a really, really good bourbon, if bourbon had a creaminess and smoothness to it that can only come from a true stout.  Despite its high alcohol content, this beer drinks really easily, but don't make the mistake of drinking it like a normal beer; it's not, it's more like drinking whisky or other high ABV spirits.

If you forced me to pick one of these, I'd take the WorldWide Stout, but only because it's not available year round like the Arrogant Bastard.  You really can't go wrong with either, but don't pick up either one if you're looking for a refreshing beer that will be nice on a hot day.

Honorable Mention:  Geary's London Porter

This is also the time for a shout-out to Beer Advocate, the best beer rating website on the internet; these guys are AWESOME!  Seriously, check them out, you won't regret it the next time you go out and are trying to decide what kind of beer to drink.

• Food

This is even harder to decide than the beer, because I just love all kinds of food.  I won't even offer you a specific dish that is my favorite, because I won't be able to decide; rather, I'm going to talk about a few cuisines and dishes from each that I really love.  These are in no particular order.

*Korean:  Spicy heat is probably my favorite food characteristic, and Korean delivers with ease and impunity.  From real Ramen soup (which totally ruined my shameful past love of the stuff that college kids think is Ramen), which makes me grin from ear to ear as I cry spicy tears, to squid and vegetables in spicy sauce, and almost everything else I've tried for that matter, I just really love Korean cuisine.  It's really simple in a way, in that it focuses on the ingredients, not on some kind of fancy technique like French or other European cuisines (not knocking French cuisine, but it does often seem to focus more on the technique than the individual ingredients), but the flavors are tremendously complex.  The heat in my favorite dishes never overwhelm the other flavors, which is key, because so often we experience spice as being this hurdle that the eater must overcome, rather than as a simple complement.  

There is a great little restaurant in New York City called Danji that serves tapas style food using traditional Korean flavors; pretty great concept, not cheap, but worth every penny.  Try the Steak Tartare and Bulgogi Sliders; you'll thank me.

*Ethiopian:  For all the jokes that are made about East African foods (search alternate definitions for  "MRE," the Meals Ready to Eat that the military gives personnel in the field for one example), this really is an amazing group of foods.  Like in many poorer countries, Ethiopians took what they had available (spices) and used them to great effect to enhance the sometimes meager ingredients available.  Kitfo, a spiced, raw ground beef, is not for the faint of heart in the USA, where we have been taught that raw beef is evil and dangerous (it's not, at least not inherently so), but it is among the most flavorful things you could ask for.  Lamb and chicken are also heavily featured in Ethiopian cuisine, but I've been to Ethiopian restaurants with a friend who is a vegetarian and she enjoyed herself immensely (she had a lentil dish, and it was delicious).  Forks will not be found at an authentic restaurant, so be warned, if you don't like using your hands, you won't like Ethiopian, where you will be given plenty of injera, a spongy, flexible flatbread to use as a vessel.  The first time I had Ethiopian, I did not enjoy the injera on its own, finding it to have an acidic, vinegary taste that was unappealing, but since I have not had that issue, though the injera was not particularly flavorful anywhere, but I suspect its not supposed to be heavily flavored.  FYI, like with most Middle Eastern countries, Ethiopians eat with their RIGHT hands; the left is traditionally used for certain, shall we say, sanitary purposes, and so it is considered unclean.  You have to be more talented than me to avoid using your left hand at all to tear pieces of the injera off, but if you get a weird look from the staff, that's probably why.


*Japanese (Sushi, really):  I like Japanese food in general, but sushi is really where it's at.  I love fish in general, but especially raw fish, without much adornment, where you really taste the fish itself.  Toro/Otoro (fatty bluefin tuna belly), hamachi (yellowtail) and unagi (freshwater eel, not served raw) are my favorites, but I really like just about everything offered in most traditional sushi joints other than a few of the roe (fish egg) options, which just don't quite work with me for textural reasons.  The simplicity of sushi really appeals to me greatly, as most traditional sushi does not include much in the way of sauces, and if the ingredients aren't perfect you can tell; despite this simplicity, the quality of the chef is key, and if you find a good one...KEEP HIM.


So, those are my three favorite cuisines, and just like with the beers, if I had to pick one it'd be the one that I find the least often; in this case, Ethiopian.  I can find acceptable sushi and (shockingly) very good Korean in my area, despite it being very rural here, but I have to drive two hours to Boston or three to New York City to have Ethiopian.

Honorable Mentions:  Chinese (the real stuff, not what you get at "Chinese" restaurants), Bar-b-que (Eastern North Carolina style being my favorite, but any will do; gotta love smoke!), and Yucatan Mexican (a great combination of numerous different ancestral cuisines)

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