Homemade Tomato Soup

When I was a kid, I HATED tomato soup.  It was gross!  Granted, I don't think I ever had the real thing, but many people enjoy canned tomato soup, so I think to some extent, my tastes have just changed.  This soup was inspired by a couple different recipes I found, including one of Alton Brown's, as I recall (gotta love AB!), but in the end, it really is my own.  This is best served with a hot, buttery grilled cheese sandwich; my favorite way to make it uses sourdough bread and a combination of smoked Gruyere and extremely sharp cheddar cheeses.  If you can get your hands on it, the Cabot Big E special cheddar is perfect for, well, everything.

Tomato Soup

1)      Two cans San Marzano whole peeled plum tomatoes

2)      Four fresh plum tomatoes (peeled and chopped into small pieces)

3)      Large head of garlic, peeled 
4)      Two carrots (peeled and diced)

5)      Half a large onion (diced)

6)      3 tablespoons butter

7)      Half a box of high quality low sodium chicken stock (or vegetable stock to keep recipe vegetarian)

8)      One quart heavy cream

9)      Sea salt

10)  Black pepper

11)  Cumin

12)  Basil

13)  Oregano

14)  Paprika

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Drain canned tomatoes, reserving juice.  Place the tomatoes on a sheet pan, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle sea salt on them.

Form a “cup” from two layers of tin foil, and place the peeled cloves of garlic inside.  Liberally cover the cloves with olive oil and sprinkle sea salt on them.  Close the “cup” by bunching the foil together at the top.

Place the canned tomatoes and the garlic in the oven and roast for 35 minutes.

After removing the tomatoes and garlic, melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or other heavy bodied pan over medium heat.  Sauté the onion and carrot until the onions are softened.  Sprinkle with paprika and sea salt.  Add the reserved juice from the canned tomatoes, fresh tomatoes, roasted tomatoes, roasted garlic, and stock and stir together.  Add sea salt, fresh cracked black pepper, cumin, basil and oregano to taste.

Lower heat to low and, stirring occasionally, simmer for 50 minutes.  Add the heavy cream, stir to mix together, and simmer for five more minutes.  Blend until smooth and creamy.

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Punjab Palace (Allston, MA)

I don't claim to be any sort of expert on Indian cuisine, and I cannot speak convincingly to authenticity of any that I've had, but Punjab Palace in Allston (a western neighborhood of Boston, MA) is the second best I've ever had, and the best in the USA.  Located just a block from my friend Joe's apartment, he goes there pretty often, and it's not hard to understand why.  The staple of our meals there is the naan, which is always delicious (seriously, have you EVER had bad naan?), but especially so at Punjab Palace, where I've had both the plain and garlic versions.  I prefer the plain, because it tends to work better for use in seizing the small, delicious chunks of whatever meat I've ordered and the basmati rice that comes with it.  Having learned from a close friend of Indian ancestry that the primary purpose of naan or any of its related flat breads is to be used to pick up the rest of the food rather than simply using one's fingers, I actually find that this is also the best way to enjoy the full range of flavors that are present in the cuisine.  For example, my favorite dishes are vindaloo (a curry dish) and shahi korma (a yogurt, cream and nut sauce), both of which have some spice; the buttery naan creates a perfect contrast with the spice, and also a chewiness that contrasts nicely with the delicate, tender lamb and goat which tend to be my favorite options.  So, while I cannot say whether this is legitimately authentic (though judging by the number of Indians I've seen eating there, I suspect it is), it is damn good, and if you're in the area, check it out.

As an added treat, after you leave there you should take the extremely short trip across the street to Sunset Grill and Tap (or its upstairs, Big City), where there are over 110 taps and nearly 400 bottled varieties of beer available.

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Bar-B-Que Sauce (Carolina Style)

To accompany my post on pulled pork, this is my recipe for Bar-B-Que Sauce, specifically a Carolina style sauce; this is a vinegar heavy sauce, but it is a bit of a mix of eastern and western Carolina styles, in that it does have ketchup (western) but is still mostly vinegar (eastern).  I like it a great deal, and quite honestly it turned out better than I expected.  I don't know how this would do with brisket or ribs, but I suspect it would be fine; regardless, it is great with pulled pork, especially for making pulled pork sandwiches, which are my favorite.

Carolina Style Bar-B-Que Sauce

3 Cups Apple Cider Vinegar

¾ Cup of Brown Sugar (dark)

Sea Salt (to taste)

Black Pepper (to taste)

Cayenne Powder (to taste)

Garlic Powder (to taste)

½ Cup of Ketchup (app.)

Heaping teaspoon of Crushed Red Chili Flakes

Several tablespoons of Honey (to taste)

Heat vinegar over medium heat until warm, then stir in the brown sugar until dissolved.   Stir in some honey until dissolved, then add the seasonings.  Stir in app. half of the ketchup, and stir in until dissolved.  Slowly add more until taste is how you want.

Start this recipe app. 20 minutes before the meat it will go on is done.  After pulling the meat bones out, add to the saucepan and continue to simmer for app. 20 more minutes.  It should have lost app. 25-30% of its volume by the time it is done and be noticeably thicker, but still soupy.

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Homemade Pulled Pork

Since it's been far too long since I have last posted, I figured I'd post about one of my all time favorite things:  Pulled Pork.  This is my own personal recipe, which is partially stolen from about ten different recipes and has many of my own ideas added in.  The rub also included some suggestions from my friend Kate, so thanks Kate!  I made this in a Dutch oven because, sadly, my current living situation doesn't allow for the use of a smoker.  Despite this, it was probably the best I've ever had north of the Mason-Dixon line, and I'm pretty sure that if I'd made it in a smoker it would have been just as good as any I've had.

Pulled Pork

Pork butt (aka Boston butt, pork shoulder), app 7-8 pounds, bone in

One bottle chocolate stout (Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout recommended); use only if cooking in a Dutch oven.

Brine

Enough water to cover the pork entirely

Significant amount of salt

2 carrots (roughly chopped)

One large white or yellow onion (roughly chopped)

Three large ancho peppers

Rub

Brown sugar

Molasses

Cayenne

Paprika

Black pepper

Cumin

Ginger

Garlic powder

Dark unsweetened or lightly sweetened cocoa powder; use only if cooking in a smoker

In a large (7 quarts minimum) Dutch oven, bring brine water to boil over high heat.  When hot but not boiling, stir in salt and add carrots, onion and ancho peppers.  Boil the water for 30 minutes.  Remove the ancho peppers and chop them into small pieces (they should be soft and re-hydrated by this time; if not, continue boiling until they are, then chop), and put them back in the water.  Boil for 15 more minutes, then remove and allow to cool to room temperature (this will take probably 2 hours).

When the brine is cool, put the pork butt in the Dutch oven, ensuring that the brine just barely covers the entire thing.  Place aluminum foil on top of the Dutch oven, then cover with the pot’s top so as to create a seal.  Refrigerate for not less than 20 hours, and preferably 24-36 hours.

After brining is complete, remove the pork butt and thoroughly wash it with cold water so as to remove any salt that has clung to the outside.  Pat it dry and set aside.  Wash and dry the Dutch oven. 

If cooking in the oven, continue to paragraph “*”

If cooking in a smoker, continue to paragraph “#”

*Place the pork butt back in the Dutch oven and score (cut slices through) the slab of fat on the back of the butt.  Rub the butt thoroughly with molasses so there is a thick layer.  Ensure that the molasses gets into every crevice and covers the entire pork butt.  Rub the pre-mixed spices into the pork butt, again ensuring that the rub gets into every crevice and thickly covers the entire butt.  Situate the pork butt in the Dutch oven with the layer of fat on top.  Reseal the top of the Dutch oven with aluminum foil, and refrigerate for app 8-10 hours.

After allowing the pork to rest with the rub on it, pour the beer around (not over) the pork butt.  Cover the Dutch oven with aluminum foil and then with the top, so as to create a seal. Place in the oven (preheated to 225 degrees), and cook for 12 hours.  Do not touch it until the full 12 hours is up.

#Place the pork butt back in the Dutch oven and score (cut slices through) the slab of fat on the back of the butt.  Rub the butt thoroughly with molasses so there is a thick layer.  Ensure that the molasses gets into every crevice and covers the entire pork butt.  Rub the pre-mixed spices into the pork butt, again ensuring that the rub gets into every crevice and thickly covers the entire butt.  Situate the pork butt in the Dutch oven with the layer of fat on top.  Reseal the top of the Dutch oven with aluminum foil, and refrigerate for app 8-10 hours. 

After allowing the pork to rest with the rub on it, place it in the smoker (preheated to 250 degrees), fat side up, and cook for 12 hours.  Do not touch it until the full 12 hours is up.

After the 12 hours is up, either remove the pork butt from the smoker or the cooking vessel from the oven.  Place the pork butt on a large cutting board, and using two forks, “pull” the pork into small pieces.  This should be quite simple as the pork butt should be falling apart.

Serve with Carolina style BBQ sauce.


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FYI, the Brooklyn Brewery Black Chocolate Stout is pretty fantastic; if you happen to drink a second one while you're cooking with the first, you won't be disappointed.  I'll probably do a review of it at a later date.

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The Corner Room (Portland, ME)

The Corner Room©

As you probably can tell, I have a bit of a Maine connection; in fact, my (former) step-family is from Portland, and I grew up spending about a quarter of each year splitting time between the mainland and Peaks Island.  In the last couple years, whenever I go up my sister and I go out and grab a bite to eat, and The Corner Room, one of the three "Room" restaurants (the others being the original, The Front Room, followed by The Grille Room), has become a favorite.  In fact, this restaurant caused my sister to give up being a vegan!  Both times we've gone we didn't have reservations and went at fairly close to peak hours and tables weren't immediately available, so we ended up sitting at the small "bar" that encircles the cheese and charcuterie prep station.  This was an unbelievable blessing the first time, which I will get to later.

The menu at The Corner Room changed a little between the first and second time I went, but the basic concept of the restaurant is an Italian inspired (though with a very American twinge) menu with "rustic" flavors.  Rustic appears to be the buzzword of the decade (century?) so far, but The Corner Room does it well; the flavors are strong, ingredients are fresh, and while there's clearly some impressive technique going into the preparation, it's never obviously about the technique rather than the food.  As I've said before, I'm all for fancy food, but the food is the key there, so technique should never come in ahead of taste.  In addition to the pizza, pasta and sandwiches, which you would expect at an Italian inspired restaurant, there are the "secondi," or main dishes, which at the moment I'm writing this include Osso Bucco alla Milanese, Risotto Frutti di Mare, and two Italian chicken dishes.  That's pretty representative of how the menu has been when I've been there.

The first time we went, we started with a platter of a variety of charcuterie, including a duck pâté, a terrine, prosciutto, and a couple others, served with two different mustards and a fruit preserve along with sliced baguette.  Did I mention that when we went in my sister had been living a vegan lifestyle?  Not anymore!  I followed this up with braised pork on a bed of pumpkin polenta and roasted brussels sprouts, and I was truly blown away.  I had never in all my life eaten a brussels sprout and not wanted to huck something at the chef, but they were delicious!  The polenta's texture may not have pleased everyone, I'll admit, though I think the flavor would have; I loved it all, but I like my polenta just the slightest bit "gritty" (I can't think up a better word), which this was.  The pork was falling apart, my knife barely being needed, and while it had a tremendous flavor on its own, it really shined when eaten in combination with the polenta, where the textures and flavors mixed.  My sister also loved her dinner, which was an Italian sandwich (mortadella, prosciutto, salami, smoked mozzarella and a few vegetables), and from the bite I tried, I can heartily endorse it; it was better than any Italian sandwich I've ever had before, and in the upper realms of all the sandwiches, of any variety, I've ever had.  We both paired our meals with beers, and they do have a decent list, including local favorites Geary's and Shipyard, as well as a pretty good looking wine list, though I am nowhere near qualified to truly comment on that part of it.

As good as the appetizer and main courses were, the truly memorable part of that meal was the cheese course we had as a substitute for dessert.  It was at this time that we truly benefited from being at the cheese and charcuterie prep station.  As it turned out, that night the station was being manned by the chef himself, which we didn't realize until later (okay, I never realized it; my sister gets all the credit here), and we'd been chatting with him off and on throughout the meal, so when we were deciding on which of the cheeses we wanted for our platter, we asked him for suggestions, and not only did he gives us the best suggestion ever, La Tur, he also gave us an extra cheese for free, which was incredibly generous.  The other three cheeses were good, but I can't for the life of me remember what they are anymore, two years later.  The La Tur though...my god.  Creamy, sweet, savory, embodying the best of each goat's, cow's and sheep's milk (it's a combination of the three), this cheese is decadence defined.  The last line of the description of it on the Murray's Cheese website, "We recommend you get back-up: La Tur is always the first to go at a party" is entirely accurate.  After buying a couple pounds of it for my sister for Christmas in 2010 (seriously, it's that good that I had it shipped to Maine from New York City), we all burned through that stuff in no time.  It is not only my favorite cheese, but there's really no competition; eating it for the first time is akin to the joy of a first kiss (thankfully without the awkwardness!) with someone you really like.  You really had no idea what to expect, but you're anticipating that it will be good...and then it's more than good; it's transcendent.  And isn't that what you want from all food (and first kisses)?

As a side note, The Corner Room now offers Sunday brunch; I haven't been yet, but I had brunch at The Front Room last year and it was pretty spectacular, so I have no reason to think it would be anything less than wonderful at The Corner Room as well.

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Brick Wall Burger (Greenfield, MA)

Brick Wall Burger is in an awful location; not physically so, because 286 Main St. in Greenfield is actually a great theoretical location for a restaurant, in the middle of downtown, but because this must be a cursed spot.  Not less than five different restaurants have been in this location in the last decade or so, some of which were actually very good, and all have failed somehow.  I'm praying that Brick Wall won't follow this trend, because not only is it something that Greenfield badly needed (a good burger joint), but it's actually up there with the best burger options in the area.  The key to this place is that they get fresh meat, locally as much as possible, and grind it themselves.  This means they don't feel the need to conform to this idiotic concept that ground meat must be cooked until there's no juice left in the poor patty; after all, the cow got killed already, no need to kill it again, and if you know that the grinder is clean, you don't need to cook the meat to death just to "be sure" that it won't have any health issues.  As a person who likes his burgers rare, this was a pleasant surprise the first time I went, as was the fact that the servers I've had have never once attempted to argue this order with me, and in fact one agreed it was the best way to eat a burger.  Along those same lines, the servers have been almost universally good, though one was cloyingly sweet; that annoys me, but I know a lot of people wouldn't mind it.

The meat is not only cooked to order, but is legitimately flavorful; this is the result, I'd guess, from buying from local farmers as much as possible, thus staying away from the mass produced beef that populates most burger joints.  I saw a review online that accused them of over-salting both the burgers and fries, but that hasn't been my experience at all; it could be an isolated incident, or it could be that this reviewer is sensitive to salt.  Either way, you can be the judge, but I wouldn't let that kind of criticism frighten you off.  The toppings they offer range from the standard (lettuce, tomato, grilled onions and peppers) to the less mundane (avocado, roasted habanero pepper, and wasabi, for example) and have been very good each time I've been, though there was a huge variation in the spice of the habanero from the first time I had the "Firebrick Burger" to the second.  You can build your own burger, picking from ground beef, ground chicken, ground pork, ground corned beef (a cool concept, but not one that interests me, to be honest), vegetarian/gluten free black bean, or portobello mushroom.  I don't see it on their website now, but they used to offer a Kobe burger and a lamb burger as well, though both were pretty expensive.  Additionally, you can pick from their "Custom Burger Works," which include some very original concepts, such as the aforementioned "Firebrick Burger," which includes habanero, avocado slices, pepperjack cheese and a chili garlic sauce that is mild but delicious.  I haven't tried them yet, but the "Bull in the Bramble" (raspberry dipping sauce and romaine lettuce) and "Burger Mosto Cotto" (grape wine reduction, tomato, fresh mozzarella, and arugula) are really interesting concepts, and I look forward to trying them soon.

A good french fry can make or break a burger joint, and Brick Wall's do not disappoint.  They are double fried, which is, in my opinion, the only proper way to cook a french fry, and while I'm not sure what kind of oil they're using, it does impart a nice flavor to the potatoes, which are nice and crispy on the outside and light inside.  The sweet potato fries are good, though as with all sweet potato fries, they suffer in the crispness category; if you're looking for crisp, though, why are you getting sweet potato fries?  Be aware, however, the homemade ketchup served with the fries is a little odd; my friends are pretty sure the reason is cloves, and I'll trust them on that, because it's a flavor I'm not very familiar with and just plain don't really like.  It doesn't ruin the fries by any means, but it doesn't enhance them either, which a good ketchup should.

Also served with your burger is a side of cole slaw, either regular or spicy.  Both are serviceable, but nothing to write home about, though I should give them credit for not using a bunch of mayonnaise to flavor the slaw; rather, it is vinegar heavy, which I like but which bothers others.  I like the spicy when I'm not getting the "Firebrick Burger," but if I am going spicy on the burger I have to get the regular, or it's a little overkill.

Beer (including the local favorite Berkshire Brewing Company) and Greenfield's own Bart's Homemade Ice Cream are offered, and both are perfect accompaniments to a good burger.  Try the Steel Rail E.P.A. for a solid, refreshing option to go with your burger, followed by Maple Walnut Ice Cream.

Update 5/9/12

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Manna House (Greenfield, MA)

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*****

As I previously said, Korean cuisine is among my few favorites, and Manna House, a tiny little hole in the wall (literally), serves some of the finest food I've ever eaten.  The owner, Mrs. Lee, cooks up fresh, traditional, and filling meals at a pretty reasonable price, all by herself while also serving and taking orders.  This is one of my favorite lunch joints, and is well worth the fifteen minute drive to meet my step-dad or friend who works in town.  The food is good enough that my mom's friends, who live in New York City and are extremely well traveled, consider this to be fantastic.

My favorite options are the Ramen soup, which comes both in both "spicy" or "not spicy" versions (be aware, the "not spicy" still has some spice), the combination platter, which has crispy pan fried dumplings (which are to die for), jap chae, rice, and "sushi", and last but not least, the spicy squid with rice.

If you've never had it in a Korean restaurant, then the Ramen will be like nothing you've ever had before.  Banish thoughts of "Top Ramen" and "Cup O' Noodles."  This is not that.  Spicy and savory, with flavorful noodles, green onions, and a fried egg, this is the single best remedy for a cold I have ever found; seriously, keep your Nyquil and Sudafed, I'll take a spicy bowl of Ramen.  It's a lot of food, but I've never even considered not finishing it, even when I was full; it's too damn good to waste.

The combo platter is a great option for people who don't like spicy foods, which most of my preferences on the menu are.  The japchae, sweet potato noodles with vegetables, is an oddly refreshing dish for a hot noodle dish.  The rice, as with all the rice served at Manna House, is properly cooked (something that should not be underestimated; seriously, how often do you get truly well cooked rice?), but lacks flavor, so I tend to use some soy sauce.  The "sushi," which is similar to the traditional Japanese variety but using either ham or kept vegetarian, is tasty but nothing to go out of your way for in my opinion, though my mother loves it.  Lastly, the real star of the show, the yakimandu, or dumplings, are also available either in pork or vegetarian versions.  Crispy pan fried, with a ridiculous amount of flavor, texture and scent, these dumplings are amazing; pretty much everyone who I've gone with thinks they're the best thing offered, and it'd be difficult to argue that point.  These aren't your standard potstickers found in Chinese restaurants; the dough is thicker, and actually is flavorful on its own, and the filling is strongly flavored but without overwhelming any of the other ingredients.

If I'm not in the mood for soup but still want something spicy, the squid and rice is great.  The sauce that comes on the squid (separated from the rice, which will become important as you get towards the end of the meal and need that plain starch to soak up some of the heat that's already hit your palate) just looks spicy, a bright red with obvious flecks of chiles.  The squid is cooked properly, something that you will almost never see, sadly; squid is always overcooked, making it tough and, well, gross.  The rice, squid and sauce together is a truly ingenious combination that makes me want to travel back in time, find the Korean chef who came up with it, and give them a big hug.  The only complaint I can find with this dish is that squid is a delicate flavor, and it does get a little overwhelmed by the sauce; however, it is not by the spice in the sauce, but by the flavor, so this is a nitpicky kind of gripe.

Overall, this is the best truly Korean restaurant I've been to (Danji, mentioned in an earlier post, does not count, as they are a "fusion" restaurant), and I highly recommend it to anyone in the area, or traveling through.  For under $10, you can get a lot of great food and be exposed to a cuisine that many people have never experienced.  The owner is extremely friendly, and after having gone to Manna House only about four times has recognized me ever since, and even knows what my favorites are.  The meals are all served with banchan, small plates of sides such as kimchi, beat sprouts, or potatoes in a slightly sweet brown sauce that I can't identify but that is really delicious.  There is also a tea that I'm pretty sure is buckwheat, but don't take my word on that; it's good, but it took me a couple tries to really like it, so if you don't enjoy it immediately give it another shot.

One last note; unlike most of the restaurants I go to and enjoy, this is actually very vegetarian friendly.  The options if you don't eat meat aren't wide, but what's available is delicious and both vegetarians I've taken enjoyed it.

**Update**
05/17/12:  It appears that Manna House has moved to a larger location on Bank Row in Greenfield, so it will be interesting to see if the menu changes/expands, and whether they're able to sustain growth.  I'll be checking it out soon I'm sure.

06/13/12:  I finally made it to the new Manna House location, and while the food hasn't changed (a good thing), this location is far, far better.  It is still not large, but now it can seat probably 30, rather than 9, and the room is beautifully decorated, clean, and welcoming.  As soon as I walked in the owner recognized me, and knew that I had not been in since she moved; while this is a small thing, it really makes a person feel welcome and comforted, and is among the many reasons that I will continue to patronize this establishment.

09/25/12:  I spoke with the owner, and she is planning on getting a liquor license, but it's a tough sell in Greenfield, a town that is already saturated with liquor serving establishments.

Also, I got the dol bi bim bab, and it was fantastic.  Served in a sizzling stone hot pot, this rice topped with vegetables and spicy chili sauce was so damn good I didn't even mind that it was vegetarian.  The mushrooms add some meaty flavor anyways, and the egg perfectly cooked as it sat on the top.  All mixed together, it creates a delicious amalgam of flavors and textures.  The rice along the bottom of the bowl crisps up a little, reminding me of the way a proper paella does as well.